Picnics in Fairy Land!
My Newfoundland “Lighthouse Picnics” Experience
Dreams are made of this…….
Bite-sized Chunks of my Culinary Adventures in Newfoundland:
Part Five – Fairies and Lighthouses with Sandwiches on the Cliff – my last day in Newfoundland……
Hello and welcome to Fairy Land! Well, not fairy land actually, but that’s what I thought the area was called when I heard Amy of the Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism Board say where we were going for our special picnic – it takes some time for a Brit to tune into the Newfoundland dialect! For those of you in the know, we were going to Ferryland of course, which is a magical place, but there were no fairies there on the day I visited…….although, they could have been hiding behind a rock or a tussock……anyway, this is the last of my Newfoundland Travel Tales, and what a fabulous last day I had in this amazing smiling land. Ferryland was originally established as a station for migratory fishermen in the late 16th century but had earlier been used by the French, Spanish, and Portuguese. By the 1590s it was one of the most popular fishing harbours in Newfoundland and acclaimed by Sir Walter Raleigh. Ferryland was called “Farilham” by the Portuguese fishermen and “Forillon” by the French—it later became Anglicised to its current name “Ferryland.” (Ferryland.com)
Amy and I drove there early one morning at the end of May, along the Irish Loop, this area is known as the Irish heart of Newfoundland and Labrador. Irish traditions, attitudes, and music continue to thrive here and the town regularly hosts summer musical events and dinner theatre productions with a strong local flavour – and with no shortage of the famed Irish wit. The annual Shamrock Folk Festival produced by the Southern Shore Folk Arts Council in Ferryland is the ultimate Irish/Newfoundland music festival in the province and after a day of traditional dancing and entertainment, you can sit on the front porch of the museum and look toward the sea across a meadow called The Gaze.. (Newfoundland Labrador) On the day we visited, there were a couple of icebergs floating by, which only added to the experience of a picnic by a lighthouse! We arrived at Ferryland just before lunchtime, and the cold air had certainly sharpened my appetite!
We parked the car and made our way over the causeway and up the hill for our walk to the lighthouse, where “Lighthouse Picnics” is situated; Lighthouse Picnics is based in and around the old lighthouse, which was built in 1870 and having heard so much about their delicious food and stunning location, I was extremely exciting to be making my way there for lunch. The day was cold and bright and the walk was exhilarating – on our way we saw icebergs set against the cobalt blue sea, robins (the larger Canadian type robins, similar to a thrush), seabirds and all the time there was the gentle lapping of the waves in the distance – it was extremely peaceful and serene. Finally we arrived at the base of the hill leading to the lighthouse – the walk isn’t that long, but do be aware you need sturdy shoes and enough energy to make the last hill, as well as a walk through some wooded scrub-land – I guesstimate it took us about half an hour to get there.
We were met by Jill, the owner of Lighthouse Picnics – she showed us around inside the lighthouse, where they also sell local crafts, books and Lighthouse Picnics related souvenirs. I had already spied the menus that adorned the wall and was deciding which picnic I was going to choose – there were four picnics on offer that day as follows:
Lighthouse Picnics Menus:
(There is also a Puffin Picnic Menu for the little ones too!)
ALL menus are served with a Lighthouse Salad, Dessert of your choice and home-made lemonade
~ Lighthouse Salad:
Orzo, Red Onion & Peppers dressed in White Wine Vinegar, Honey and Parmesan
~ Dessert
(a choice of cakes and tarts)
~ Fresh Lemonade
~ Seafood Picnic ~
$26
~ Newfoundland Shrimp and Smoked Salmon, Sweet Peppers and Avocado served on Home-made Bread
~ Ham and Brie Picnic ~
$25
~ Chutney glazed Ham, Brie and Green Apple served on Oatmeal Bread
~ Curried Chicken Picnic ~
$25
~ Chicken breast, Celery, Green Onion, Sliced Almonds and Mango in our Curry Dressing served on Oatmeal Bread
~ Veggie Picnic ~
Sundried Tomato, Goat’s Cheese and Organic Greens on Home-made Bread
$23
I chose the Seafood Picnic and we were then issued with a large plastic-backed rug and a flag! The flag was to mark where we were sitting, so the Lighthouse Ladies would be able to find us and deliver our picnic to us! Amy and I made our way outside and found a lovely sheltered spot on the cliffs overlooking the sparkling sea……the weather was bright and sunny, but extremely cold and I think I had about FIVE layers on in the following photo! Our picnics were delivered to us about ten minutes later – all laid out in a newspaper lined basket. My seafood sandwich was packed full of plump fresh shrimp and smoked salmon – the seafood was perfect with the sweet peppers and tangy dressing; the home-made molasses oat bread was delectable and was thickly cut, just the way I like it! The Lighthouse salad was tangy with a cheese dressing and the orzo (pasta) was perfectly cooked. My lemonade had a citrus punch, but was sweet with fresh lemons and was served in a Kilner Jar (Mason Jar) with a lid – the whole meal and picnic experience was fabulous – amazingly tasty and freshly prepared food lovingly made and served against the magnificent backdrop of the Newfoundland cliffs and ocean……it was a picnic experience of a lifetime and one I will cherish forever.
Amy and I opted to have our dessert inside the lighthouse, with a cup of tea, and if the weather is inclement, then there is ample space in the lighthouse (with lots of cosy corners) for people to enjoy their picnic, albeit an indoors picnic! The dessert choice of the day was: Chocolate Fudge Cake, Gingerbread Cake with a Buttery Molasses Sauce and an assortment of locally picked Fruit and Berry Tarts – Blueberry, Bakeapple (Cloudberry) and Rhubarb. I opted for the gingerbread cake and Jill very kindly served us with an assortment of three mini fruit and berry tarts too! The desserts were ALL served with pretty little edible flowers, sourced from a local organic farm in Portugal Cove. We sat inside the lighthouse watching the Lighthouse Ladies prepare and serve more picnics, as well as afternoon teas with home-baked scones and home-made jams, whilst the fragrant scent of newly baked bread permeated the whole tea room……..it was heavenly!
After a peruse around the shop, we made our farewells and started our walk back to the car and Ferryland, with tummies full and heads full of memories……the whole Lighthouse Picnics experience had been just magical with fresh air, fine local food, excellent service and a very unique way to dine out – if I am lucky enough to be in Newfoundland again, I am beating a path back to this amazing place for the food, friendship and location.
So, my time in Newfoundland was nearly over – with a brief trip back to St John’s and Signal Hill, as well as a photo opportunity to take some more shots of the “jelly bean” houses, my flight to Halifax in the afternoon beckoned, with new adventures to unfold on Nova Scotia – do pop back to read all about my Nova Scotia weekend AS WELL as my FIRST Newfoundland Recipe! Words cannot accurately sum up my love for this island province, and so, I would like to finish of my Newfoundland Odyssey by sharing part of the “Ode to Newfoundland” anthem, which is wonderfully poignant and epitomises this beautiful corner of Atlantic Canada as well as its wonderful people. Karen
When sun rays crown thy pine clad hills,
And summer spreads her hand,
When silvern voices tune thy rills,
We love thee, smiling land.
We love thee, we love thee,
We love thee, smiling land.
When spreads thy cloak of shimmering white,
At winter’s stern command,
Thro’ shortened day, and starlit night,
We love thee, frozen land.
We love thee, we love thee
We love thee, frozen land.
When blinding storm gusts fret thy shore,
And wild waves lash thy strand,
Thro’ spindrift swirl, and tempest roar,
We love thee windswept land.
We love thee, we love thee
We love thee windswept land.
Next stop Nova Scotia!
Disclaimer: I was the guest of the Canadian Tourism Commission and Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism and all my flights, accommodation and meals were included, as well as all trips, excursions and special cookery sessions with local chefs. With profound thanks to all the people and organisations that looked after me and made my trip so memorable and exciting.
Links to my other Atlantic Canada Eats Posts are here:
Fiddlehead Ferns, Foraging and a Traditional Newfoundland Jiggs Dinner
Cocktails, Puddings & Madeleines: A Nocturnal Tasting Tour of Newfoundland – Old & New
Cloudberries, Tea Buns & Chocolate Shoes: A Postcard from Newfoundland, Atlantic Canada
Icebergs, Cod & Beer: A Postcard from Newfoundland, Atlantic Canada
A Photo Diary from Newfoundland: Chocolate, Buns & Cod Tongues…..
Atlantic Canada Eats: Newfoundland & Beyond with Recipes that Jumped the Pond!
PLEASE do follow my adventures around Newfoundland and Nova Scotia! The hash tags once again are:
#AtlanticCanadaEats
#ExploreCanada
See my posts and photos on:
Twitter: @KarenBurnsBooth
Face Book: Lavender and Lovage
Instagram: Lavender and Lovage
Pinterest: Atlantic Canada Eats
The Food
The Lighthouse Ladies make all the food fresh at the lighthouse each day – the molasses oatmeal bread, the orzo & fresh mint salad, the freshly squeezed lemonade and the list goes on and on.
The minute you walk through the door you’ll be greeted with the sweet smell of fresh baked scones, chocolate treats and fresh berry jams simmering away.
They care about the quality of their ingredients. Local and organic products are used as much as possible. Their sprouts, fresh herbs, greens and edible flowers come from the Organic Farm in Portugal Cove. Newfoundland is known for its seafood, so of course they use cold water shrimp, salmon and crab from their waters.
Fair trade coffees, it goes without saying…..they love their tea in Newfoundland and are delighted to offer a large selection of speciality teas – from dandelion, to a special blend of Earl Grey/Green blend that has its origins ‘steeped’ in Newfoundland history (Just ask them as they’re pouring it for you…)
Examples of items from the Lighthouse Picnic menu:
Chutney-glazed ham & brie on lighthouse bread
Warm gingerbread & custard sauce
Crab cakes (in season)
Orange crumble square
Curried chicken with mango and sliced almonds on lighthouse bread
Peach shortcakes
Orzo, pepper and fresh mint salad
Strawberry Rhubarb fools
Cranberry scones
They also offer a children’s menu as well – the Puffin Picnic is a special treat for little ones.
AncientMariner says
What a a fabulous day out Karen, with such sumptuous, yet simple, food.
I feel a sstrong desire to visit Newfoundland coming on.
Just discovered Air Canada is now flying UK to St Johns Newfoundland
on a daily basis.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks very much AM! I was captivated by Newfoundland and is my intention to try to go back there sometimes in the near future! Yes, Air Canada has a daily flight between London and St John’s all year round now – and it is only 5 hrs too! Karen
Dominic says
such a cute mistake to make!… in my opinion it looks like Fairyland so I think you were spot on. bet those prawn sandwiches were better than the Tesco one’s i’ve just eaten! xx
Karen Burns-Booth says
Well I am a cutie Dom! 🙂 The sandwiches were amazing and packed with seafood and in THICK slices of home-made bread too! Karen
kellie@foodtoglow says
I would’ve made the same dialectic mistake, I’m sure. I know someone from Newfie and I love her accent but I can see where there can be confusion. What a lovely, lovely day if obviously very chilly. It sounds idyllic and how cute with the flag to make your spot! The food sounds delicious and with such nice extra touches. I have enjoyed these posts very much.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Phew, not just me then Kellie, although I am known for it! I once confused an American guest’s description of “meady” scallops as cooked with mead and NOT meaty! LOL! Thanks so much for your supportive comments, Karen
Janice says
A very special experience but, on a selfish note, I’m glad you were the one going to Newfoundland as it looks bloomin’ cold there! Still I know you loved it and the picnic looks amazing, iceberg and all!
Karen Burns-Booth says
LOL! It was cold but sunny and NOT damp, so a different and more exhilarating type of cold Janice and the province JUST fascinated me, I loved it there as you know! Karen
Glamorous Glutton says
I want to go to Fairy Land! It looks wonderful. Your photos are so bright with colour and atmosphere. Can’t believe the iceberg floating by! Great picnic – I’m not surprised it’s an experience that will stay with you. GG
Karen Burns-Booth says
The maybe we should go GG! I couldn’t get over the fact that wherever you seemed to be by the coast, there were icebergs just floating by! Karen
heather says
Oh wow! What am amazing place to have a picnic, and all that food looks amazing. Im hungry now just looking at it! Coveting those knit mittens too! 🙂
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks so much Heather! Those knitted items are just lovely and the slipper socks are called “vamps”, which makes me laugh as they are so un-vampish! Karen
Rebecca says
What a fabulous experience lovely uncomplicated food enjoyed so informally.
Newfoundland souns, and looks via your great pics, a lovely place, so different to
over priced, over hyped , over hot beach so called resorts with their plastic food
and plastic environment.
Karen Burns-Booth says
I so agree with you Rebecca – it was a truly magical place with stunning scenery and lovely people!
Louisa Foti says
I’ve never heard of supplied picnics like this but what a lovely concept and in such a beautiful location. Love the fact you could see icebergs floating past whilst you picniced! Totally magical.
Karen Burns-Booth says
I am thinking of setting up a similar business Lou, well, we have offered B and B guests picnics before and we have several hampers for them, but I am thinking of a way to incorporate it into a new business plan! BUT, sadly, we have no doghouse here! Maybe I can do something else…….got my thinking cap on!
London Unattached says
Wonderful to see an iceberg. And, while it does look a little chilly, blue skies make everything OK!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Yes, it was cold Fiona, but a crispy and sunny cold if that makes sense!
Jacqueline says
What a gorgeous place Karen. You had such a wonderful trip. Nice memories!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Lovely memories Jac and such a fabulous picnic in a stunning location too! Karen
Bintu @ Recipes From A Pantry says
I would be excited at the chance to go to the stunning ‘fairy land’ too Karen. Looks so nice and the fresh lemonade and orzo salad sound rather tempting.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Bintu! IT was a great trip and this was the perfect ending! Karen
Sisley White says
You photos are incredible. It looks like a wonderful trip with incredible food.