Dorothy Hartley, Cattern Cakes & Lace
and
Victorian Epiphany Tart Recipe
One of my favourite books is “Food of England” by Dorothy Hartley, a veritable treasure trove of food, ingredients, customs, traditions, rural activities, crafts, foraging identification all accompanied with beautifully executed line drawings. The book is not just a recipe book, but an essential almanac covering the regional foods of Britain with charming observations about local traditions as well as intricate explanations of different cuts of meat, shapes and styles of English bread and even illustrations of regional sheep and cattle. In short, it’s a historical account of how life was over 60 years ago, recorded in journalistic detail and with a certain amount of humour, as such was Dorothy Hartley’s way. One of my favourite phrases from the book sums up exactly how I feel about English (and British) food, “English cooking is old-fashioned, because we like it that way” Dorothy says, and I wonder how many other people feel just the same way……it’s our historical basis for many a modern dish and the foundation of our culinary culture.
From the unusual “Bargee’s Pail”, how to cook a meal on a barge in a pail (bucket) to a collection of wooden spoons and how to make a stargazy pie, the illustrations bring to life methods and recipes from a fairly recent but almost forgotten era. Dorothy’s words are what I engage with when reading the book, and her observation and passion are always evident, but, the drawings are fascinating and extremely varied in their subject manner, so even a collection of saws and outdoor paraphernalia are included for those who are keen to follow a bucolic lifestyle in the country. Amongst the recipes for “Yorkshire Shrimp Teas”, “Ancestral Apple Pie”, “Buttered Crumbs” and “Orange-Flower Cream” there is a recipe, or should I say recipes, for intricate “Jam Tarts”, of which one is “Epiphany Tart”. An Epiphany Tart is made with thirteen different colours and types of jams, and sits in a star shape lattice-work, that obviously represents the star that led the Three Kings to pay homage to the baby Jesus and leave their gifts to him.
My recipe for Epiphany Tart today was made with NINE different jams and preserves, it was all I could muster at the time, but, it still looks wonderful, and as it should, like a stained glass window of glowing conserves and preserves. The recipe is an adapted one that I discovered in another favourite book of mine, “Cattern Cakes and Lace” by a much slimmer volume of traditional British recipes than Dorothy’s Food in England, this book is also beautifully illustrated with snippets of poetry, local ditties and anecdotes. Entertaining as opposed to being scholarly, it’s nevertheless a beautiful book with some wonderful historic recipes that follows the Christian year. As well as today’s Epiphany Tart recipe, I have made numerous other recipes from the book including the title recipe for Cattern Cakes, which are traditionally made on St Catherine’s Day in November.
But back to today, the 6th of January, which is Epiphany of course; I made this intricate jam tart yesterday, and then invited some friends over to enjoy a slice or two with a cup of tea in the afternoon. Although Victorian housewives would have used up to thirteen different jams for their tarts, which would have been entered into “Church Supper” contests, I managed nine different jams and preserves. My nine jams comprised: three fruit marmalade, ginger marmalade, cherry jam, raspberry jam, blackcurrant jam, greengage jam, fig jam, rhubarb jam and strawberry jam. I was disappointed that I didn’t have any lemon curd, but I still think that the colours and flavours were diverse enough to create quite a stunning jam tart.
Although I am in France at the moment, I return back the UK tomorrow, where the Galette des Rois are served on the 6th January, it’s this humble English Jam Tart that I am making for today……a little bit of home as I take down the last decorations and toast the Three Kings. For other Epiphany recipe ideas, why not try my King Cake: Rosca de Reyes, Wassail or my recipe for Curried Beef & Apricot Pie with a Salt Glaze Crust. I’ll be travelling tomorrow and working in London on Thursday, but I’ll be back with more news and recipes at the end of the week. Karen
Victorian Epiphany Tart (Jam Tart)
Serves | 8 slices |
Prep time | 15 minutes |
Cook time | 30 minutes |
Total time | 45 minutes |
Dietary | Vegetarian |
Meal type | Dessert, Snack |
Misc | Child Friendly, Pre-preparable, Serve Cold, Serve Hot |
Occasion | Casual Party, Christmas, Formal Party |
Region | British |
By author | Karen S Burns-Booth |
Ingredients
- 225g (8ozs) shortcrust pastry
- Approximately 150g (6ozs) assorted jams, preserves and marmalade (such as lemon curd, marmalade, raspberry jam, strawberry jam, blackcurrant jam, ginger marmalade, fig jam, plum/greengage jam, mixed berry jam etc)
Note
A traditional Victorian tart recipe that was made specially for Epiphany and Church Suppers; housewives would vie with each other to make the prettiest and most intricate designs. Historical note: Tradition says that you should use thirteen different jams to fill the thirteen spaces - one for Jesus and the remaining twelve for his disciples.
Directions
Step 1 | Pre-heat oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Butter a 23cm/9" pie or tart tin or plate. |
Step 2 | Roll out the pastry on a floured board and line the pie tin/plate with it, trimming off any excess that hangs over the edges. |
Step 3 | With the pastry trimmings, roll them out into a long rectangle and cut them into strips; arrange the strips in the tart base, as shown in the photo, into a star shape, and spoon the different jams into each space between the latticework strips. Note - if you warm the jam first it will be easier to spoon in. |
Step 4 | Bake for between 25 and 30 minutes, until the pastry is cooked and golden brown. Allow to cool slightly, as the jam will be hot, and serve in wedges with cream or custard. |
Step 5 | I used: Marmalade, Ginger Marmalade, Greengage Jam, Raspberry Jam, Strawberry Jam, Rhubarb Jam, Fig Jam, Blackcurrant Jam and Cherry Preserve. |
Alexandra, the Lass in the Apron says
That tart is beautiful, Karen–just like a stained-glass window. I shall have to look around and get myself a copy of Dorothy Hartley’s book; it sounds exactly like the kind of cookbook that I like best!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks so much Alexandra, I know that you would absolutely LOVE this book and would take it to bed to read as I do! Karen
Dominic says
such a pretty and simple idea and a lovely colourful one too to bring some well-needed colour into this drab world at this time of year… i’ve SO many posts of yours to catch up on since i’ve got back from California… all look gorgeous!… Happy New Year to you darling xxx
Karen Burns-Booth says
Welcome home Dom! Lovely to see you back! It’s just a posh jam tart but with history which makes it somehow nicer!
Kirsten Lauridsen says
Hi Karen,
I must try out this tart with some of my many home-made jams 🙂 Three Kings Day is not celebrated at all here in Denmark, but it could become a good reason to enjoy some cake.
Kirsten
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Kirsten! Time to start a new tradition in Denmark if only to use your jams up!!! Happy New Year ☺Karen
Foodie Laura says
What a gorgeous cookbook. I’d not heard of an epiphany tart, it looks beautiful.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Laura – the book is like my culinary bible! Karen
Jennifer @foodprocessor07 says
Are you kidding me? It looks de-e-elicious! I want that tart!!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Jennifer! 🙂
Fiona @ London-Unattached says
I have cattern cakes and lace but not the dorothy hartley book. Lovely looking tart;)
Karen says
Thanks Fiona, Dorothy Hartley’s book is a veritable treasure trove of old English recipes and traditions.
anna@annamayeveryday says
Fabulous, I have never heard of an Epiphany Tart before, but any sort of jam tart is delicious! Happy 2015!
Karen says
Thanks and Happy New Year to you too Anna! Karen
David Griffen says
Wow! It’s like a new and exciting version of the traditional jam tart. I love the idea of mixing all the fruity flavours in one dish. I’ve never tried greengage jam – is it much different to plum jam?
http://www.davidgriffen.co.uk/food-photography-blog
Karen says
Thanks David! Yes it is a bit different to normal plum jam, it has a slightly sourer taste than normal plum jam and tastes more “plummier” if that makes sense! Karen
Amanda Ricci says
I’m impressed! Your cake is beautiful! 🙂
Deena kakaya says
This looks so tempting Karen. I particularly like that it reminds me of the tarts of my childhood, though yours looks far more elegant and bursting with quality x
Karen says
Aw thanks so much Deena, I bet your jam tarts are just as tasty – it’s just nice to makes something very traditional sometimes and with a wonderful history to support it too. Karen
What Kate Baked says
What a bright and vibrant tart to cheer up a dull, dark January day! Happy New Year Karen! x
Karen says
Thanks so much Kate and a very Happy New Year to you too! Karen
Choclette says
I’ve never seen this before Karen., what a perfectly splendid idea. It takes the humble jam tart up to a completely new level. Much easier to make than a King cake too 😉
Karen says
Thanks Choclette, yes, MUCH easier than a King Cake and just as tasty and delicious in its own way! Plus, it’s a recipe with wonderful historical provenance too.
Sylvia says
Oh my this looks fabulous! I love homemade jellies and jams in bakes! Sylvia x
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Sylvia! It was a wonderful sweet treat too!
Fiver Feeds says
I heard about many different names for this but one thing is certain…it tastes amazing! One of my favorite tarts!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks, yes, we love this tart too FF!
Dave O'Hara says
Thanks for this. It makes my mouth water. The only thing is i’d probably feel like eating it ALL at once, which would be no good for the diet 😉
Nice blog by the way, i’ll dip in every now and again as time allows.
Dave from Durham
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks very much Dave, and I will also pop over to see what you are doing in Durham, which I know and love well, and where my grandparents used to live! Karen
jola8000 says
That is one absolutely gorgeous cake. Perfect!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks so much Jola! Karen
Anastasia-Camille says
This is lovely. All I can see is a Magen David, or Star of David, so I’m hoping to make this for one of the appropriate Jewish Holidays. I am physically disabled (very mobility impaired and chronic level 10 pain), and cooking is extremely difficult for me, so would it be terrible to use store-bought French preserves? I will for obvious reasons not be using 13 different flavours, how many do you recommend to make it look pretty? I’ve been reading through your posts, and I adore this blog and its title.
Karen Burns-Booth says
HI Anastasia-Camille!
Thanks so much for your lovely comments about my blog – it’s wonderful to see you here.
Shop bought French preserves are just fine and I would say between 4 and 5 different preserves would make it look pretty!
Karen
Michelle Carden says
Those pictures are making my mouth water! I miss traditional English puddings since moving back to Australia. Maybe I need to start making my own.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks so much – this is such a wonderful tart to make and has an interesting history too! Karen
Lovisa says
Looks soo good! Will have to try this recipe ASAP!
http://www.londonfoodbabes.com
Tally says
Beautiful! These look and sound delicious!