A North Eastern and Lancashire Speciality
for
Carlin Sunday
(Passion Sunday)
It’s no surprise that quite often, the most plain and simple of foods (and ingredients) are revered and held in people’s memories; they are usually recipes that are associated with childhood, or from a native land, and this humble brown pea is one such thing. The “Carlin” is a pea that is grown at home in the British Isles, and evokes many heated discussions about its place in the modern culinary kitchen. Old fashioned and dour it may sound and look, but this pea is a prince among peas which boasts many names…..It can be known as “Carlin”, “Carling”, “Black or Grey Badger”, “Pigeon Peas”, Maple Peas, Brown or Black Peas and “Parched Peas”.
I grew up knowing what carlin peas were, as my mother’s side of the family originate from the North East, around Sunderland and West Hartlepool, whilst some of dad’s relations live in Newcastle-upon-Tyne and Gateshead. My grandparents went on the live in Northumberland and County Durham, and I can remember these little brown peas with affection, as they often made an appearance on my grandmother’s old farmhouse kitchen table. They have quite a history these peas too, with tales of starvation, war and conflict being attributed to the regional popularity of these humble legumes.
The story, or legend goes something like this…..the people of Newcastle were saved from starvation after the town was besieged during the 1644 civil war, or some stories say during the Scottish siege under Robert the Bruce in 1327; legend has it that a French ship managed to dock in Newcastle the Sunday before Palm Sunday, bringing with it a cargo of “maple peas” aka Carlins, hence the name for Passion Sunday (the 5th Sunday in Lent and the Sunday before Palm Sunday) being Carlin or Carling Sunday. I understand that the name “carlins” or “carlings” is due to the fact that the peas look like rabbit droppings, which are called Carlings, but I have yet to substantiate that theory yet!
Today’s recipe is a simple one and is from the North East of England; it’s a recipe for fried carlins which are then served with salt, pepper and malt vinegar. Traditionally served in public houses (pubs) in newspaper cones, the peas are soaked overnight, boiled for an hour before being fried in butter…..you then season them to taste with salt, (white) pepper and vinegar and they are truly delicious served this way. Over in Lancashire, they are called Parched Peas, where they are served “parched” – which is a term for slow cooking or boiling, they are then served with seasoning and vinegar, as in the North East (but not fried), or even with brown sugar and rum sometimes.
You can also boil the peas in the same cooking liquor as a ham or gammon – similar to pease pudding, and I have also seen a recipe where the carlin peas are mashed with bread crumbs and made into little cakes before being fried. I missed sharing this recipe BEFORE Carlin Sunday (Passion Sunday, Pea Sunday, Parched Sunday) this year, but, these peas still have a place in our everyday kitchens, and they are extremely nutritious and very tasty. You can eat them as an accompaniment with fried fish, ham, bacon, gammon or sausages, as well as enjoying them as a snack, served in little paper cones, as the North Eastern tradition dictates. I have never had them made into little cakes, but I’m going to try that next time I prepare them, as I bet they are great served as part of full English breakfast that way.
You can grow your own carlin peas at home, in the garden, they are similar to sweet peas with pretty white and purple flowers; they grow to about six foot and are often referred to as “medieval mushy peas” on the back of the seed packets. However, if like me you need them now, then I buy mine from these three stockists: Country Products in Yorkshire, Ken Bentley of Ken Bentley Speciality Delicatessen Foods, of Driffield, East Yorkshire and Hodmedod’s in Suffolk. (All three stockists offer on-line purchases) I hope you enjoy my family recipe for Carlins, I’ll be sharing many more heirloom and historic recipes from the British Isles over the coming months. Karen
Carlins
Print recipe
| Serves | 4 to 6 |
| Prep time | 24 hours |
| Cook time | 1 hour, 5 minutes |
| Total time | 25 hours, 5 minutes |
| Dietary | Vegetarian |
| Meal type | Lunch, Side Dish, Snack |
| Misc | Pre-preparable, Serve Hot |
| Occasion | Easter, Halloween |
| Region | British |
| By author | Karen S Burns-Booth |
Ingredients
- 225g carling peas
- 50g butter
- salt and white pepper
- malt vinegar
Note
These fried, seasoned peas were traditionally served in the North East of England out of newspaper cones, usually in pubs, so why not serve them this way for Carling Sunday or any other time, such as an informal supper etc. Carling peas are also known as Black or Grey Badgers, Maple Peas, Pigeon Peas, Brown or Black Peas and are served fried (after boiling) or "parched", which means being simmered for a long time until they are cooked.
Directions
| Step 1 | Soak the peas overnight in plenty of water; the next day, strain them and put the peas in to a large saucepan with fresh water to cover them, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until they are soft. |
| Step 2 | Drain the peas, then melt the butter into a large frying pan. Add the peas and fry over a brisk heat for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring them all the time, making sure they don't "catch" and burn. |
| Step 3 | Serve the peas with plenty of salt, white pepper and a dash of vinegar to taste. |
| Step 4 | These fried, buttery seasoned peas were traditionally served in the North East of England out of newspaper cones, usually in pubs, so why not serve them this way for Carling Sunday or any other time, such as an informal supper etc. |
There is a Northern saying; “Tid, Mid, Miseray, Carlin, Palm, Pace-Egg Day”, which helps people remember the order in which the days fall.
An explanation:
(The saying is derived from the psalms, hymns and Sundays of the Christian religious period of Lent)
Tid – Second Sunday in Lent when the Te Deum Laudamus hymn was sung,
Mid – The third Sunday when the Mi Deus Hymn was sung.
Miseray – the fourth Lenten Sunday, was when the Miserere Mei Psalm was chanted.
Carlin – Passion Sunday, the fifth Sunday in Lent, adopted by the North Eastern regions as Carlin Sunday.
Palm – Palm Sunday, the sixth and final Sunday of lent.
Pace Egg – A corruption of “Pasch” from the Latin and Greek root for “Easter”. Easter Sunday is the first Sunday after Lent
Links to other Historical and Heirloom Recipes:
A Northumberland Cottage Kitchen Recipe: Stotty Cake (Stottie Cake)
Cheese Savoury (Sandwich Filling)
Anita-Clare Field says
These look fascinating. Right up my street peas with salt and vinegar! Fascinated by the story behind them. I love learning about new things so thank you so much so teaching me summat new
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Anita-Clare, the curious thing is that when you eat these peas with salt and vinegar, they almost taste like chip shop chips! It’s weird, but rather nice! Karen
liz says
The pigeon peas in North America don’t look the same, are they different to the UK ones
Karen Burns-Booth says
So I understand, and I also understand that they are so called as they are fed to pigeons, or birds in general Liz!
Johanna GGG says
Love the story of the peas saving a town – that is a great tale for the international year of legumes! I’d love to go into a pub where I was served these peas with salt and vinegar – do many (any) still serve them?
Karen Burns-Booth says
Yes, it is a story, but I suspect that there is more than an element of truth in the tale, although the dates cannot be accurately confirmed.
I am not sure if you can still get these in pubs in the NE, as I have not been there for some years, but I may ask some of my relatives who still live up there and let you know!
I DO know that the Parched Peas of Lancashire, are still sold from vans and also, all the peas mentioned are often sold at fairs.
Karen
annjenny says
Thank you for a fascinating history/culinary lesson. I’ve not heard of these before.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks so much Ann-Jenny, DO try to get some, as they are very easy to cook and taste wonderful!
kellie@foodtoglow says
What an interesting post, Karen. I love it when you “do history” for us. I have some of these very peas in a cupboard and now I have the recipe to go with them. Thanks for sharing. Lovely images too. Making peas glam!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks for your lovely comment Kellie, and DO rush to that cupboard and use those peas ASAP! I am sharing a new recipe for the little pea cakes soon, as I made some a day ago and we all loved them, they are super nutritious and very tasty when served for a cooked breakfast.
Glam peas, LOVE it! 🙂
Karen
Catherine says
Thank you very much for bringing this tasty snack back to mind ,I remember we always had them on Carlin Sunday where they were widely sold in the north east area, but now down in the south no one has ever heard of them. I also remember the rhyme too
Julie Humphries says
I have just come across this article which brings back memories of my time growing up in Hartlepool. My Mam used to buy the dried Carlins from Walton’s Pet Shop in York Road and I used to love them either boiled or fried with vinegar on them. The rhyme I remember was Carlin, Palm, Paste Egg Day.
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks Julie, My mum came from Sunderland, and her dad, my grandfather was born in West Hartlepool, so we share a regional background! My mum used to make these every Easter, and I have taken up the baton since she passed away last year. I also LOVE them fried too, and DEFINITELY with vinegar! Karen
Mike says
Up here in Bury, Lancs, bags of Carlin peas are sold for 95p by butchers, veg stalls etc. They are sold for cooking but you can grow them as they are only pea seeds after all.
Karen Burns-Booth says
I can’t get them in N Wales, so get them when I go home to N Yorkshire! As Bury is closer, I’ll see if I can them there instead. Karen
Michael Stalley says
A great story so much history thank you and i am also from Hartlepool regards ,,
Karen Burns-Booth says
My pleasure Michael! Happy Easter to you in Hartlepool, Karen
Hana Sundet says
I wanted to make this for a simple Bonfire Night dish, but where I live there’s not a Carlin pea in sight! In fact, I think my regular grocery only has split peas, which I knew would get too mushy, so I got little French green lentils, instead. They only took 20-25 minutes to cook, but then I followed the rest of the recipe to finish them off. The flavor delighted me and is well worth keeping in my repertoire. I hope to grow my own Carlin peas, this coming season, so I can try the real deal for Lent!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thanks for leaving this very helpful comment Hana – it’s great to hear that you were able to substitute what you had available locally. Karen.
Melissa says
Just made these for Carling Sunday yesterday and they turned out great! I fried half the pound of dried peas and parched the other half. I was only able to order the organic Hodmedod’s to be shipped to the U.S., and those aren’t quite as dark in color, but they tasted delicious. Thank you for the clear directions and lovely photos!
Karen Burns-Booth says
Thank you for letting me know Melissa, and I am thrilled that you were able to get some Hodmedod’s sent to the US too! 🙂 Karen
vidmate download says
Carlins, Black Badgers, and Parched Peas refer to different varieties of peas traditionally enjoyed in the UK, especially in the northern regions. Carlins, also known as Maple Peas, are small, brown peas often simmered to make a hearty soup. Black Badgers are a type of black and white striped pea, and Parched Peas are whole, dried peas that are roasted or parched, commonly eaten during Bonfire Night celebrations in parts of northern England. These peas have a rich cultural history and are enjoyed in various culinary traditions, each offering a unique texture and flavor to traditional dishes.